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To make sure that both pieces were the
same, I clamped them together and then sanded them. Now that the pieces
are the right size, let's weld them in place.
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To weld this together, I first
tack-welded each end and then tacked the middle. I then put more
tack-welds in the middle of those and repeated this process till I had a
tack-weld every two inches or so. I then started welding on one end and
joined the first tack-welds together. For the next set of welds, I
skipped the next tack-weld and started on the following weld. The reason for
this is so I don't warp the thin material as easily. This seemed to work
pretty good as you can see.
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What I'm doing here is putting a baffle
in for the fuel sending unit. This will help to keep the sending unit
from bouncing around so much which will keep the fuel gage from moving
to quickly. Notice the ends aren't welded to the back or side. This is so fuel
can get inside the baffled area.
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Now that the inside is finished, it's
time to put the top on it. The first thing I had to do was to make sure
that the top was square with the back. If it's not square, I might end
up with the top being to one side once I got to the other end and then
it wouldn't fit so this was a critical step. Once I had the back square
and tacked in place, I used an old motorcycle tie-down strap to slowly
bring the top in position while I welded. It was like a third hand
helping me which worked great. I added one to the bottom as well and
then tack welded at one inch intervals. When I had two tack welds on one
side, I turned the tank over and tack welded that side like the other
side. I repeated this process till I had the whole top tack welded
together. At this point, I was ready to fully weld the top but only did
one inch sections at a time because of how much heat was being produced.
I thought that using this thinner material would be a plus because of
the weight savings but I found out that it warps VERY easy with just the
slightest amount of heat. If I did it again, I'd use at heaver material.
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