One of the things I bought for the
tank was a filler-neck and cap. After I did some measuring on top of the
tank, I would need to cut the filler-neck down to a smaller size. After
cutting off the top I also put a relief in the underside of the neck so
the material thickness would be closer too the tanks thickness for
welding purposes.
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Another item that was needed is a
sending unit for the fuel gage. This ones made by VDO
but as you know, I have Autometer gages. Why didn't I buy a sending unit
from Autometer? They don't make one if you can believe that so I had to
go else where. This sending unit is adjustable too accommodate different
depths of tanks from 6" to 30". It also came with a gasket but
no locking nut so I'll have to come up with some way of fastening this
down on my own. This has a two wire hookup (gage and ground wires) just
like my other tank does so the wiring is already in place.
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This unit came with a chart to help
you calculate the length of the sending unit to the depth of your tank.
After measuring the depth of my tank, I needed to remove one piece of
the sending unit so it would work with my setup. I also needed to drill
out one of the holes in the sending units support so it would work for me but it's
wasn't a big deal. Now that the sending unit has been set for the proper
tank depth, I'll need to measure and cut the float arm to the right
length.
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Too make sure I had the float
arm on the right side, I hooked up the gage wires and then moved the
float arm up and down while I watched the gage from the outside of the
car through the rear window to make sure that it worked. I also put a
"F" (full) on the sending unit to remind me later so I didn't
get the float arm on backwards. If it gets installed the wrong way, your
gage will read "full" when it's really "empty" and
"empty" when it's really "full".
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