Escape The Room  21          6-2017

 

More Component Parts Continued

 

I went 3/4" inch deep on the pocket, which is all I could go with the type of end mill I was using. However, this should be more than enough for this to work right. In case you were wondering about that funny looking area on the chamfer, that's a casting flaw that was in the aluminum before I machined it.
 

 

 

Here is what it looks like once it's placed inside the pocket. When the adapter is permanently mounted to the shaft, a portion of it will be sticking out once the safety doors are closed. Then the guests will grab the hand wheel, place it over the square part of the adapter and turn the gears. All this in the order to keep everyone safe.
 

 

 

The item that will be dispensed is something I think people will want to see while the gears are turning. I plan on making a window out of some clear plastic so everyone can see the progress of the item as it makes it way across the threads. This should build the anticipation as the clock is ticking.

The pencil line represents the size of the window that I'll be cutting out and should be just the right size and location for most everyone to see. Laying out the location was easy to do from the back so I know it's in the right spot.
 

 

 

I transferred the location to the front as it will be easier to cut from this side. After removing the 12" gear, I used a jigsaw for the cut and it worked pretty good.
 

 

 

I had some leftover plastic sheet from another project that I thought would work great for this. In fact, one dimension was already finished so all I had to do was make one cut. All you do is 'score' the top surface a few times and then using your hands, snap the piece in two. I like using something with a straight edge while scoring and breaking, like these two pieces of wood the plastic is sandwiched between.
 

 

 

I wanted to machine the periphery to size (the arrows show the corners) so I used my milling machine for this. Machining this plastic is not as easy as it sounds, it tends to crack and melt onto your cutter if you go to fast. Slowing down the RPM is key here and taking your time.
 

 

 

To hold the plastic in place I'll be making a trim piece out of aluminum. The thickness of the trim piece is .090" and will look like the cardboard cutout on the right when finished. After cutting out the cardboard template, I used a scribe to transfer the rough location from the template of where I need to cut.
 

 

 

Cutting thin sheet is always a challenge with clamping being the most important detail. After finding the center of my work piece, I was ready to make some chips (aluminum chips that is).
 

 

 

I used a 3/4" end mill to cut with and stayed away from my line by about 1/8". Notice the center of the aluminum sheet is still resting on my wood tooling. Wood tooling works great for things like this because it's easy to work with and is very cheap too.
 

 

 

I also cut a recess into the trim piece for the plastic to sit. This way the plastic is trapped and won't move once it's fastened down.
 

 

 

To fasten it down with I'll be using six flathead screws. This was an easy piece to make and should look nice when mounted on the plywood.
 

 

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