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		 1st. Bandsaw Upgrades Continued 
		And to take it a step farther, why not make a different shim for all my 
		different blades?
		I removed the 1/4" blade and replaced it with a 3/8" blade, adjusted it, and 
		then figured out what 
		that size I had now. The difference between those two blades gave 
		me enough data to figure out the size for all the different blades 
		that I own. What I going to do is make five different shims of 
		various sizes to 
		accommodate all my blades.  
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      Here I'm squaring all five shims on my 
		milling machine.  
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        Once all the shims were to the correct thickness and were square, I cut 
		a slot in each one to clear the hex support shaft.  
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        The numbers that you see are for the blade sizes, not the thickness of 
		each shim.  
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         Now when I want to change blades, I just have to match the proper shim to the 
		blade size. That means I'll loosen my new screw, move the hex shaft, 
		insert the proper shim, slid the hex shaft with the shim against the 
		bracket and tighten the screw again. Very simple and very quick! 
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        Here I'm testing a 1/2" blade on some scrap wood and the new shim worked 
		exactly as I wanted.  
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        I'm storing the shims on the side of my bandsaw, along with some other 
		tools. From this point forward changing blades will be no big deal. 
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        2nd. Bandsaw Upgrade   
		While working on my
		
		daughter's Christmas present, 
		which was the bandsaw box that I made for her, I was having a hard time 
		moving and turning my work piece for two reasons. The first problem was 
		trying to slide and turn my work piece on the cast iron table. When 
		working with some intricate curves you need complete control but I found 
		myself forcing the work piece every now and then. This would lead me to 
		over-shooting my line, which would cause the blade to dig in where I 
		didn't want it to. 
		 The second thing I found that hindered me was the table 
		insert that sits just below the surface of the table (in the picture 
		below I have the table insert removed). Every now and then 
		my work piece would catch on that small lip, again causing my blade to 
		go where it wasn't intended. I plan on making a simple fix for both of 
		these problems.  
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        This is my table insert, which is made out of plastic. Now this works 
		fine for rough cutting but not for smaller and fine stuff. However, I 
		found a simple fix for this. 
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         I found this idea by complete accident while watching some 
		guy working on a project on a bandsaw. This guy's project included 
		some very small curves but he was moving his work piece with almost no 
		effort at all. And then I noticed what he was using that covered his bandsaw 
		table, it was 'dry eraser board'.  
		Now we all know how slick dry eraser boards can be, and 
		at that moment the light bulb went on. Well the next day I went 
		to the hardware store and was looking for a dry eraser board but they 
		didn't have the traditional type that hangs on the wall, but they did had 
		something else which was a 2' X 4' X 1/8" thick piece of wood with one side coated 
		with some kind of an erasable surface.  
		I thought I'd try this because it was cheep and would be 
		easy to work with. I cut a piece that was the same size as my bandsaw 
		table plus about 1/2" per side.  
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        I set me 
		digital readout for 17.5" 
		and sure enough it cut my work piece to that exact dimension. This new 
		unit sure does save time setting my fence these days.  
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