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		2nd. Bandsaw Upgrade Continued   
		I placed my new slick surface on my bandsaw, cut a slot 
		in it about halfway through and then stopped. This will act as a 'zero 
		clearance table insert; like you'd find on a table saw. Now there's no way my 
		work piece will get hung-up on my table insert any longer.  
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      Next I drew some lines at each corner so I 
		could round them over. I used my belt sander for this and sanded to the 
		line. 
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        Next
        I sanded all the edges so it will be easy to handle. Now it's time to 
		make sure it doesn't move while I'm using it. 
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         I'm going to use four small magnets to hold this board in 
		place. That means I'll need to machine some pockets for the magnets to set 
		in.  
		I used a 3/4" end mill to produce the pocket that you 
		see here. However, end mills have an angle ground on the bottom of them and will 
		leave a high spot in the center while plunging straight down. To get 
		around this I switched over to a smaller end mill and walked around the 
		pocket, staying away from the sides. This creates a nice flat surface 
		when you're finished. The gray color that you see in the pocket is 
		pencil lead. I colored the entire surface to see where I was cutting 
		because the depth is only a few thousandths.  
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         I bought two different diameter magnets to place in the 
		pockets because I didn't know which one would work the best. I ended up 
		using the larger ones, which are 5/8" diameter. The smaller ones are 
		1/2" diameter and both are 1/16" thick. Side note: the reason 
		the magnets are so far apart is because they're really strong and kept 
		moving towards each other. 
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        Here I'm mixing some five minute epoxy to keep the magnets in place.  
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        A few minutes later I had all four magnets bonded. This was 
		easy to do and should work great to keep my slick new table in place. 
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        3rd. Bandsaw Upgrade   
		One other thing I saw while watching that same video was 
		the use of a "Stabilizer". What's a stabilizer? Well I didn't know 
		either until the guy explained it and the more I watched the more I had 
		to try one. A stabilizer is used with very small blades, 1/4" or less, 
		and excel at making a very small radius while cutting. And the first 
		thing I thought of was how nice it would've been if I had this while 
		making that Christmas gift. 
		 Anyways, I started looking for one and found this model 
		made for a Grizzly saw. Cool I thought. However, just because something
		looks like it will work doesn't mean it will. Case and point: 
		when I first saw this unit with the hex shank and none of the other 
		models had one, I figured it was the right part for my saw. Well that's 
		what I get for thinking! 
		 I was almost ready to send this back but then I started 
		looking at what I would have to do so I could use it. And after a day or 
		two I came up with a plan to give it a try after all. 
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        A stabilizer takes the place of of your guide bearings...and I mean all 
		of them. So what you see below will need to be removed along with the 
		lower ones as well.  
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         When I was looking at the picture online I saw this hex 
		shank and thought I was good to go. But as you can see the stabilizer's 
		shank is much smaller. Now if it was larger I could've just machined it 
		down but it's not. So now what?  
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