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Working With Plastic Continued
I'm going to need to put a radius on my plastic piece,
eight places to be exact. This will be done by hand and to help me with
this I'll be using a radius gage. Now I used 3/8" end mill for all the
corners in the wood piece, which means I'll need a 3/16" radius gage for
each corner. Remember, a radius is half of the diameter: so 3/8" or
.375" divided by two equals 3/16" or .1875".
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I used my sanding block with 150 paper to
remove the excess material at each corner. And as you can see the 3/16"
radius gage fits pretty good after a few minutes of sanding.
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Here is a close-up of the fit. This isn't hard to do, but it is time
consuming because I don't want to overshoot and make the radius too
large. So taking my time is key here.
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Working With Wood Again
Once all the corners on the plastic piece were finished, it was time
to do the same thing on the wooden piece (arrows). I'll be using the
same radius gage here as well.
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I used a small file to produce the radius, which went
slow because it's hard to move around in this cramped space. Also,
notice the edge of the file pointed upward. If you look close you won't
see any teeth to dig into my work piece.
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I purposely removed all the teeth with my grinder so it wouldn't dig
into my work piece. This works great, but it's a slow process. Now it's
time to address the sharp corners where the money will go, which is
directly below the file.
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I used my Dremel and a sanding drum to soften these corners (four
places).
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Then I gave the entire bank a once over using a sanding block, sandpaper
wrapped around a wooden dowel but mostly by hand.
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Working With Plastic Again I'm putting in clearance holes for some #4 screws to
fasten the plastic to the bank. This worked out pretty good because I
was able to use this one setup by rotating and flipping the plastic.
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Once the clearance holes were drilled, I used my countersink for some #4
flat head screws. But after looking at the plastic sitting on the bank,
I think I need four more screws near the middle.
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