Features Continued

This saw also has a very good fence system. First, the scale is very easy to read and locks in place with that handle. Second, here you can see the fence in the upright position but it's easy to change to the lower position.
 

To change the fence to the lower profile you just move that lever on the left, pull the fence out, turn it 90 degrees and slide it back on. The fence system works on a T-track making it very easy to switch between one or the other.
 

Here is the lever that you loosen for the fence. This handle is spring loaded meaning you can pull on it, move it to another position and then let it click in allowing you to loosen or tighten as you need. I like it!!
 

To change blades, you pulled out that tapered pin with the small handle on it (arrow), loosen the blade, remove the plastic blade guard and then slide the blade out using the slot in the table.
 

The reason the tapered pin is to make sure the cast iron table stays in alignment. This is common practice because when the table was ground at the factory, it was nice and flat. But when you cut a slot in it (for the blade in this case), it releases stress within the material allowing it to move. However, when you insert that pin into the hole, the table is aligned again.
 

Modifications 

I added a small chain to the tapered pin so I won't loose it. I drilled and tapped a 8-32 thread under the cast iron table, hooked the chain to the screw, then drilled a hole through the handle and fastened the chain to it. This way it will be right at my finger tips whenever I need it.
 

I used some magnets to hold some of the tools which is located on the back. To adjust the guild rollers on the bottom, I made a custom T-handle wrench (bottom left) that will work much better than the one that came with the machine. Also, notice the feeler gages on the bottom. These are to set clearance on the guild rollers, one is for the rear and the other is for the sides.